The clipping of grape bunches off the vines created a rhythm as if the harvesters performing these acts had synchronized a symphony of earthly beauty. A light rain started to fall from the sky adding to the musically relaxing sounds and as quickly as the rain appeared, it then vanished with a rolling fog that came across the vineyards, creating a dramatic effect as the golden sun beamed from the sky and banished the mist as it was time for the vines to absorb the sun. As the golden hue intensified, there were sounds of creatures within the dense forest surrounding the vineyards, sounds like grunts from a couple of boars, and then it shifts swiftly to the sounds of waves crashing against jagged rocks from the sea as the sunset painted the sky with glorious shades of orange, pink and red.
A stunning film transported the audience of wine professionals to the vineyards of the enchanting area of Montalcino within the region of Tuscany, Italy, as they sat in a room within the prestigious Christie’s Auction House in Manhattan, New York City. Three decades of Tenuta Luce’s Luce della Vite wines would be tasted under the guidance of the winemaker Alessandro Marini, showcasing the different vintage expressions of a wine that dared to combine two renowned grape, polar opposites to each other, that seemingly would never find a harmonious partnership: Sangiovese and Merlot.
Photo Credit: Gabi Porter
Yet under the leadership of two iconic wine families, Frescobaldi and Mondavi, each with an impressive history in Tuscany and Napa Valley, respectively, these two varieties seamlessly enhanced each other. Unfortunately, the great titan Robert Mondavi passed away in 2008, but the Frescobaldi family still honors his legacy because as partners, they were able to create a very special wine that has only become better over the past 30 years.
Sangiovese & Merlot
The Frescobaldi family is one of the oldest winemaking families in Italy, with 700 years and 30 generations in Tuscany and today they own several wine estates within the region, hence, very few know more about Tuscan wine or the Sangiovese grape variety, which finds its classic home in Tuscany, than Frescobaldi. However, they also have half a century of experience with the Merlot variety, as their CastelGiocondo estate has been making 100% Merlot wines since the 1970s. And even though most Italians would say that no grape can compare to Sangiovese, there is a strong case to make for Merlot – as one of the most sought-after wines in the world, many times breaking records at auction houses, is Château Pétrus, an often times 100% Merlot (sometimes a couple of percentages of Cabernet Franc are added in certain vintages) from the Right Bank of Bordeaux, France.
The one wine that could challenge Château Pétrus would be Masseto, a 100% Merlot planted on a stellar estate in Bolgheri, Tuscany, also owned by the Frescobaldi family.
Photo Credit: Tenuta Luce
The Luce estate is located in the southwestern part of the hill town of Montalcino, which is the warmest area and known as the wildest, as it is mainly taken up by forests. The winemaker of Luce, Alessandro Marini, said that during the summer, the climate could be desert-like, with days getting as high as 95 Fahrenheit and it has one of the biggest diurnal swings in temperature for nighttime in the area as it will drop to 60 Fahrenheit – over 30 degrees difference. Alessandro remarked that this is an ideal situation for the vineyards as the grapes get a “push for ripeness” during the day, yet the cool night helps retain acidity and aromatics.
Their Sangiovese vines are planted on schist soil, which the grape loves as schist is good at retaining heat, which helps to ripen the grape while also providing moisture during dry periods. The Merlot is planted on clay, and the top vineyards of the world for Merlot are often clay dominant as it’s cooler since it is more compact as the water in the soil evaporates more slowly, keeping it at a lower temperature than looser soils. Merlot can tend to get over-ripe, so the cooler soil helps to moderate the ripening process, making sure to produce a Merlot that is more harmonious and elegant; also, the varied elevation of the property encourages an overall finesse to the wines as it ranges from 885-1,371 feet.
30 Years Of Luce
The vertical showcased a range of vintages to show Luce’s ability to shine in various circumstances. For example, 1994 represented the beginning of this remarkable experiment (1993 was the first vintage) so they were still finding their way in the early days. But even with a small jump to 1999, there is a significant increase in quality, and the wine is wonderful. They did not shy away from showcasing a weaker vintage for Montalcino, such as 2002, which was forecasted to not age so well yet was impressive with its layered complexity and illustrated that great producers will always make a high-quality wine in every vintage, it is just a matter of whether some vintages are more extraordinary than others. When it comes to extraordinary vintages, they generously presented such outstanding years as 2009, 2015, 2016 and 2019 that dazzled and the newly released vintage, 2022, is simply a knockout.
Not only was the space where this momentous tasting took place a breathtaking venue but just walking through the halls of the Christie’s Auction House in Manhattan was a powerful experience as exquisite works of art were displayed along the way to this epic event. It was fitting to have such paintings by preeminent artists, who were revolutionary in their own ways during their time, lighting the way in a sense to this wine tasting of preeminent wine families, who created their own revolution of excellence.
Photo Credit: Gabi Porter
2022 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Multi-layered rich fruit flavor of blueberry scone drizzled with raspberry coulis and dark chocolate covered cherries that is highlighted by spicy notes of cinnamon toast and an intense minerality with very fine tannins and bright acidity yet plenty of structure to indicate this wine will have a long life.
2019 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Effusive red fruit intertwined with notes of rose oil immediately enchants with fresh crunchy fruit on the palate with complex notes of asphalt and tobacco leaf that has incredible precision on the finish with a long-expression of aromatics.
2016 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. A showstopper of a wine that is at once deliciously decadent while also being regally elegant with concentrated flavor of blackberry cobbler balanced by hints of Mediterranean scrub and grilled herbs that has succulent fruit on the palate that is given shape and drive by powerfully chiseled tannins and has a long, flavorful finish with an overall radiance that lifts the wine.
2015 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Plush mulberry fruit delights from the first taste with a thrilling note of scorched earth that has silky tannins that caress the palate creating an exceptional textural experience.
2013 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Aniseed, cinnamon stick and dried cranberries invite one to delve into the chewy tannins that releases savory flavors, such as roasted eggplant, to intermix with the sweet qualities of the wine.
2009 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. A gorgeous nose of violets and jasmine with dense fruit of raspberry liqueur and intoxicating notes of black truffle with an exciting hint of soy sauce wrapped up in supple tannins that leaves one in a decadent afterglow.
2005 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Starts out with savory aromas of herbs and wild mushrooms that morphs to brambly berries with a hint of forest floor and licorice on the finish that has lots of tannins with a lovely round quality that gives volume to this full-bodied wine.
2002 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. A wine with multidimensional aromas with graphite and sandalwood on the nose with a delicious touch of bacon fat that has a slight grip to the structure with fresh blackberries bringing a nice vitality to the multitude of complex notes.
1999 Luce, Luce della Vite, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Vibrant red fruit and basil leaf on the nose that jumps out of the glass yet gets dark and brooding on the palate with mulberry compote and an underlying hint of balsamic herbs with a broad palate.
1994 Luce Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy: Blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Dark garnet color that has a ruby rim with intriguing notes of smoldering cigar and singed sage leaf with plenty of fruit left on the palate with flavors of cherries jubilee and medium weight to the body.
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