New Wine From Rare Plot Within A Top European White Wine Region

For avid collectors of iconic and luxury white wines made from the Riesling grape variety, it will come as no surprise that these are some of the longest-lived wines, easily lasting 50 years in some cases under ideal cellaring conditions. Still, thankfully, for most, they are also wines that can give a profound, ethereal experience much earlier in life.

Three classic countries are known for iconic Riesling wines: Germany, Austria and France. The first two make complete sense, although the third could confuse people, as many well-known varieties trace their home to France, and Riesling might seem out of place. The northeast French region of Alsace (which borders Germany) has gone back and forth between German rule and French rule many times, still showing its German influence in this French area with the architecture-style of the homes, the food, German last names and their ability to make some of the best Riesling as well as producing three other “noble” white varieties.

And an outstanding wine producer, Domaines Schlumberger, one of the oldest wine houses in Alsace with the largest amount of Grand Cru vineyards, has released a special wine from a rare plot that is on its way to becoming the next iconic wine of Alsace: ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling.

‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling

Hardcore Alsace wine collectors will note that a Grand Cru vineyard called ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ does not exist in Alsace and they would be right. The name does not refer to a Grand Cru vineyard but a tiny named parcel that is also a monopole within the Grand Cru vineyard Kitterlé, Schluberger’s best site for Riesling. A monopole is a parcel that is owned entirely by one producer, in this case, Domaine Schlumberger, and this particular Grand Cru monopole reaches a height of over 1,000 feet high in elevation with terraced slopes at 50 degrees, hence why it is known as the “Calf Breaker,” as all of the vineyard management has to be done by hand and it is backbreaking work. The combination of the previously mentioned aspects of this parcel and the fact that volcanic rocks dominate the soils all contribute to producing meager yields that make highly complex, concentrated wines.

So, where does the name Le Clos Saint Léger come from? The name was inspired by the local Saint Léger Church, which had a monk in the 12th century write about the area as a “blessed valley, like a celestial jewel,” representing this wine’s exceptional qualities.

Schlumberger’s Legacy

Today, 7th-generation family co-owner Thomas Schlumberger runs Domaines Schlumberger with his sister Séverine, considering that his family has acquired the largest amount of Grand Cru vineyards with four different Grand Crus in total. They both realize they have a big responsibility and do not take it lightly. Thomas expresses deep gratitude for his family’s innate talent for identifying superior sites before the classified system existed and their resiliency to keep those precious sites under the toughest of circumstances.

Thomas and his sister have moved to organic practices to bring more balance to the vines and introduced plowing with a horse (which is better for the environment and reduces soil compaction) and reduced yields, even though the tiny parcel of ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ already has extremely low yields naturally. And when it comes to the release of the special bottling of ‘Le Clos Saint Léger,’ with 2017 being the inaugural vintage, they will hold back vintages until they are ready – Thomas did note that they think 2019 will be released before the 2018 as the 2018 seems like it will take a lot more time. He exclaimed that any vintage that doesn’t reach the highest standards will be skipped regarding the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ bottling.

The Schlumberger family owns 50 acres of the 64 acres of the Grand Cru Kitterlé area; hence, they are multi-generational experts of this stellar Grand Cru estate, knowing each tiny section of this spectacular site, which is only one of a couple of vineyard sites in Alsace that has this particular volcanic soil. So when they say that the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel is the best site they have for Riesling, that is saying something remarkable as no one else has the amount of Grand Cru vineyards as they do, and they know most of the Grand Cru Kitterlé site intimately (an extraordinary site that demands extreme viticulture with steep slopes); a special section made by multi-generational experts within an already uniquely great vineyard equals the potential of an iconic wine in the making.

Link to original Forbes article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cathrinetodd/2024/10/13/new-iconic-wine-from-rare-plot-within-a-top-european-white-wine-region/

A couple of thousand bottles of the 2017 Domaines Schlumberger’ Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling have been made, with only 300 bottles sent to the U.S.

There are tasting notes for not only the 2017 below but also the 2018, 2019 and 2020, although only the 2017 is on the market in select places with the other vintages being cellared until they are ready to be released; each bottle is hand numbered.

2017 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. A fantastic light golden color that glimmers in the light with intoxicating aromas of a smoky minerality, honeysuckle and incredible purity of fruit that has a beautiful richness on the palate balanced by mouthwatering acidity with a textural quality that gives it lift and precision on the long, expressive finish.

2018 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. A nose that knocks one’s socks off with delectable notes of freshly made crêpes with lemon curd topped with candied violets that has a fierce backbone of saline minerality and bright acidity with hints of aniseeds dancing in the background.

2019 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. A refined nose of wet river stones and juicy apricots with lots of dense fruit, such as caramel peaches, on the palate, balanced by zesty orange rind with a very structured body and a laser-focused finish with crisp acidity.

2020 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: 100% Riesling from ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. An exquisite bouquet of lemon blossom and a hint of jasmine with an underlying note of salty lemon confit and marked acidity bring fierce electricity to this wine with an incredible amount of tension.